Punk by agnès b., not Vivienne Westwood

Always a nice surprise to see exhibitions by fashion labels. The last one I visited was Chanel’s The Little Black Jacket and that was more than a year ago!

One would immediately associated punk with Vivienne Westwood and perhaps be pleasantly surprised by this agnès b. exhibition. In reality, agnès b. has been collaborating with various art mediums including photography for decades. I’ve always been fascinated by the agnès b. CINEMA in Hong Kong and I applaud their support for the arts community.

Agnès worked closely with photographer Sheila Rock to launch this travelling exhibition, which began in London and Paris in 2013 and is making its rounds across Asia this year. With a last name like Rock, it’s no wonder she is able to capture the unpretentious, raw and creative energy of the punk movement in her photographs.

Of course, there is a pop-up store and you may find me hanging out (permanently) there! Punk+: A Photo Exhibition by Sheila Rock is presented by agnès b and opens today at the Substation Gallery at 45 Armenian Street, Singapore 179936. The exhibition runs through 26 October and is open daily from 12 noon to 9 pm. Admission is free.

x Sybil

(Image from sagg)

Kenta Matsushige: Clean, intellectual, minimalistic

Kenta Matsushige’s designs first caught my eye when he was shortlisted as one of the finalist of HYÈRES 2014.

Clean, intellectual and minimalistic, the designs are in a neutral palette of different shades of white and grey.

Based in Japan, Matsushige graduated from the Chambre Syndicale De La Couture Parisienne .

” A work installed within a bucolic setting orin a small provincial town, will have more presence than lost in a city. My collection aims to be urban and modern whilst respecting hinabi, pastoral beauty, which is in opposition to miyabi, urban beauty ”
– Kenta Matsushige

What caught me was the impeccable workmanship and the simple lines that highlighted the dramatic shapes in an understated and muted way. I especially enjoyed the element of surprise in the contoured button hole details and the attention to detail in the use of the swarovski elements.

It is no wonder that he beat 300 other applicants and won the Hyere’s 2014 competition. I find it impressive that he managed to impress with such a small collection and I’m truly looking forward to what he will come up with next!

X Alex

(Images from chasseurmagazine)

A new silhouette for the Asian women: PHUONG MY

One of the most polished brands I’ve seen at BLUEPRINT is PHUONG MY and the SS2014 collection showcased at the trade show left a deep impression. The designer may be young but the brand targets sophisticated women who can afford luxury and enjoy the finer things in life. The simplicity and elegance of the designs shines through and I find the designs very refreshing amongst those featured at BLUEPRINT.

Aged 26, Tran Phuong My is born in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam and studied at the Academy of Art University in San Francisco. Her attention to detail is immaculate and again, this can be seen in her works. It also dawned on me that the fabric used for SS2014 is very unique; a beautiful pastel coloured organza silk, and I’m impressed to learn that fabric production is exclusively outsourced to the brand’s partners in Paris, Milan and Hong Kong.

PHUONG MY’s brand vision is to share the beauty of the modern Asian women with the entire fashion world; a truly inspiring statement. According to the brand profile, “PHUONG MY’s greatest inspiration comes from the exquisite virtue of Asian women, who are at the same time fervent and feminine, bold and delicate. Behind their dainty grace, there lies brilliant compassion and admirable strength. With beautiful, striking silhouettes and made from the most exclusively luxury fabrics, designs of Phuong My always embrace the feminine figure of the Orient and make women feel confident about themselves.”

The latest PHUONG MY SS2014 collection is titled Summer Scent which the designer calls “a special treat for women who want to feel feminine, elegant and gorgeous”.

 

Inspired by various element of nature during summer time, sweet pastel colours such as light and baby pink, chartreuse, mint and grey are applied in PHUONG MY’s signature cutting-edge designs.  The brand’s trademark puffed waistline is a prominent feature while the use of laser-cut floral appliqués is added to create a sophisticated 3D visual effect.

The collection centers on creating a diverse spin to the usual cocktail beat by applying a thoughtful selection of fabric and colours. The use of premiere silk, signature wool silk and luxurious Korean polyester organza creates a unique texture and silhouette to the pieces.

Their FW2013 collection celebrates the Asian women by crafting fabric structures and forms that embrace, with rhythm and harmony, the feminine figure of the Orient. The silhouette is further defined by dresses and outer pieces such as coats. While short-sleeved blouses and dresses hug and reveal the female form, the outer pieces carve out visually structural contours, think sculpted shoulders, large collars, and cocoon shape or straight form jackets.

I’m not so much into dresses but there’s no doubt I’ll be waiting for the designer to expand her range of offerings to include pieces that’ll fit with the rest of my wardrobe. I can’t wait.

 

x Sybil

(Images from PHUONG MY)

Alexandre Vauthier: Sleek Sharp Dangerous

I was browsing the web when I came across the works of Alexandre Vauthier. Sleek, sharp and dangerous were the first three words that popped into my mind. I was grabbed by that look of the femme fatale, the confident show of skin and that luxurious glamour.

Having worked at Thierry Mugler’s studio and Jean Paul Gaultier couture’s team, he definitely have an impressive set of credentials. I especially love his bold and dramatic take on fashion, for that sexy, glamourous confident woman.

Here are some looks from his SS2014 Couture collection:

 

Definitely someone to watch out for.

X Alex

(Images from Alexandre Vauthier and Style.com)

Perfectly Paired: Where I See Fashion

If there is a website that perfectly mirrors our vision and inspiration, it’ll be Where I See Fashion, a tumblr created by Bianca Luini, a 22 year-old fashion design student studying at the Politecnico di Milano, Italy. Her tumblr, like ours, is about fashion and everything that inspires it, from art, design, nature to photography.

She started matching great works of fashion with images that she feels relate to them, either through form, texture, colour or concept, and she hasn’t stopped since. According to Bianca, “Sometimes a fashion picture reminds me instantly of something and I go look for it, sometimes it’s a random picture that makes me think of an outfit or editorial. Occasionally it happens that by chance I see two pictures near each other on my dashboard or in a random blog that perfectly go together.”

 

Details backstage at Christian Dior Haute Couture Spring 2012 | Terraced rice fields in Yunnan, China

Issey Miyake RTW Spring 2014 | Interior of the Caixa Forum art gallery in Madrid, Spain

Kadi Haute Couture Spring 2013 | Lava flow in Hawaii photographed by Johan Elzenga

Yiqing Yin Haute Couture Fall 2013 | Mountain Lake by Michael Creese, 2014

Yiqing Yin Haute Couture Fall 2012 | The black coast of Vik during heavy rainfall in Iceland by Stefan Forster

The works of fashion alone are beautiful but pairing them with an artwork or an image of a landscape provides an imagery that’s even more striking. It’s almost as if Bianca has discovered the story board behind each piece of design. In a remarkably straight forward manner, she has managed to create a direct dialogue between two works of art. No doubt this will be a website we return to again and again.

x Sybil

(Images from Where I See Fashion)

Asia Fashion Summit: The Korean Showcase

Asia Fashion Summit is usually spread across three days with two days of talks and one day of workshop. This year, however, the programme consists of one day of talks and two days of workshops, which is a pity. Sometimes you get the usual sales pitch, i.e. our country is great for producing your designs or our departmental store has everything you need, but you usually find gems within the programme. These are speakers who give real insight to new trends or retailing strategies and there is Colin McDowell, because who doesn’t want to have a chat with him?

The unofficial ‘Korean showcase’ turned out to be the highlight of the Summit. Rick Yoo, Managing Director of Lotte Global Fashion Division and Jay Anne Jin, Executive Director (Business Development) of LF Corp presented the dynamism of the Korean retail industry and building a solid, long-lasting organizational capability respectively. What’s interesting is that they did not focus on their successful business models but instead discussed key issues within the Korean fashion industry and Korean culture. This ability to self-critique and self-reflect is probably why they are so successful. They understood that Korea’s development and growth in the industry has exceeded healthy limits and that traditions and quality are being compromised. Nonetheless, there are lots to learn from the Koreans, especially their sense of patriotism and loyalty to Korean brands; something we can definitely take a cue from. Time to prove yourselves at this weekends’s BLUEPRINT emporium!

 
x Sybil
(Image from Textile & Fashion Federation, Singapore)

Asia Fashion Summit 2014

Hussein Chalayan in conversation with Colin McDowell during last year’s Asia Fashion Summit

 

The Audi Fashion Festival opened last evening with the Prabal Gugung show but there will be no rest this week. We’re starting our day bright and early at the Asia Fashion Summit 2014. It’s the fifth edition and we’re looking forward to some of the big names coming to town for this annual conference. They include Franz Kraatz, Managing Director of Robinsons Singapore, Kelvin Lee, Business Development Director (Southeast Asia) of Taobao International Business, Harry Markl, Regional Managing Director of ZALORA Group, Steven Kolb, Chief Executive Officer of Council of Fashion Designers of America and especially Thomas Tait’s dialogue session with Colin McDowell.

The theme this year is “Asia’s Business Perspective”, focusing on Asia’s largest online shopping platforms, Zalora and Taobao. However, we cannot avoid the obvious Korean feature with speeches by Rick Yoo, Managing Director of Lotte Global Fashion Division and Jay Anne Jin, Executive Director (Business Development) of LF Corp because let’s face it, no one has been more successful in exporting their culture.

In between breaks, we’ll also try to clone ourselves so that we can check out BLUEPRINT. Join us if you’re in town!

 

x Sybil

Iris Van herpen: Biopiracy

I am a big fan of Iris Van Herpen. I think she is one of the greatest visionaries alive and someone who truly blends art and fashion with ease.

As someone who also asks questions that becomes the spine of the collection, her question for her Biopiracy collection is
” In the recent past, patents on our genes have been purchased. Are we still the sole proprietor of our bodies?”

The collection now mixed with ready to wear and couture pieces is presented with artist Lawrence Malstaf to create a powerful visual that reminded me of Alexander McQueen’s theatrical presentations.

Models suspended in air tight plastics, fed with oxygen through a tube. Surreal and attention grabbing.

The mysterious sci-fi scene might just draw your attention away from the clothes had the clothes not been amazing. But they are just as beautifully crafted as ever.

This time, Van Herpen has included wearable pieces citing her move towards ready to wear. I love that the pieces, though wearable, are not mainstream, with her signature textures and 3D elements.

I think she is genius to start with couture and move to ready to wear without losing the essence of her brand. Looking forward to more.

Meanwhile, you have a great week ahead!

X Alex

(Images from Iris Van Herpen)

Cultures as a source of inspiration: Rachel Entwistle

I have been lusting over Rachel Entwistle’s jewellery for a few weeks now and it’s driving me crazy! Can my accessory drawer really take another ring and bracelet and necklace and maybe two of each!? I give up! I can always wear them to sleep I guess…

Inspired by different cultures and her journeys to Mexico, Guatemala and India, designer Rachel Entwistle translates her travel experiences into intricate and edgy designs. All pieces are handmade in her studio, using metals such as sterling silver, black rhodium and gold.

A look from her Alchemical collection

Looks from the Milagros collection

 

Entwistle graduated from Cultural studies before she went on to Jewellery Design. With her background in Cultural Studies, she immerses herself into the local culture, customs and superstitions during her travels, using these experiences as her source of inspiration. Anthropology, symbolism and mysticism are the main inspirations behind her collections.

A winner of the International Jewellery London Editor’s Choice for Originality and nominee for New Designer of the Year at the UK Jewellery Awards 2012, Entwistle is also the co-owner of Thor & Wistle-a specialist jewellery boutique in Shoreditch, featuring works by jewellery designers Kamilla Thorsen, Jana Reinhardt, Dominique Lucas and more.

I especially love the Milagros collection. The cross rings are beautiful and would make lovely pinky rings or knuckle rings. I can’t wait to get my hands on one!

 

x Sybil

(Images from Rachel Entwistle)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Philomena Kwok: Milliner of the future

I chanced upon Philomena Kwok‘s work today and was drawn by some of the pieces.

Originally a jewellery designer, Philomena started out designing with metal, wood, resin and semi precious stones but began working on headpieces upon requests from her bespoke clients. What I like most are her collaboration pieces that truly pushes the envelope.

Here are some of the pieces from the collaborations over the years:

Collaboration with Flowers for a Vagabond and Tara Sutton

Looking forward to more collaborations by her.

X Alex

 

(Images from the emerging designer and Philomena Kwok)